The Shikoku Mountain Blues

Friday 17 February 2012

About half-an-hour up the mountain from Okawa is a house on stilts, balancing over a ravine, abandoned. A handful of rickety structures lean into the hillside nearby, the homes of old hermits who tend their own rice paddies and manage to survive without driving to the convenience mart in town. We didn’t see any people [...]

Single Serving: Lemon Ice Box Pie at Lois the Pie Queen in Oakland

Tuesday 30 August 2011

Floridians can get surly when it comes to Key Lime Pie. I don’t blame them when bakeries across California serve too-sweet lime pies colored green and label them “Key” on menus. I’ve never tried the real thing, but breakfasts at Lois the Pie Queen have got me thinking: Maybe the best key lime pie in [...]

When Pigs Fly: Uncle John’s in Chicago (Where Barbecue Gets Sauced)

Wednesday 24 August 2011

My latest column for Serious Eats is the first of two stories on Chicago’s Southside, where ribs come fiercely smoky and typically smothered in a barbecue sauce that is not for the meek.

When Pigs Fly: Ribs in Brooklyn, Ribs of the World

Friday 15 April 2011

My latest stories for Serious Eats cover New York’s only sanctioned barbecue contest and a variety of traditional rib preparations from throughout the world: Grillin’ on the Bay in Brooklyn: Where Barbecue Gets Loose The Serious Eats Guide to Ribs of the World

Chicken A La Prince

Tuesday 23 November 2010

“You eat with your eyes first.” Fair enough. Here’s another one: “What game was the ref watching?” I’ll accept pride in plating, but when I order a tray of carne asada fries, a fistful of fried dumplings, or a Jack-in-the-Box taco, I calibrate my visual appetite accordingly. The same rule applies when I’m in line [...]

When Pigs Fly: Barbecue History and Brontosaurus Ribs

Saturday 20 November 2010

Robert F. Moss’ Barbecue: The History of an American Institution The Serious Eats Barbecue Style Guide, Part I My newest barbecue columns for Serious Eats review some essential barbecue reading and set out the first part of what will become a fairly epic guide to barbecue styles in the United States of America. Yyyabba Dabba [...]

Time Well Spent, Indeed

Tuesday 16 November 2010

In early September, I spent five days in the Carolinas. Most of my time was spent sniffing out stories in barbecue country, and those experiences became the core of Serious Eats columns on the Lexington style, barbecue sides in the Carolinas, the Mustard belt of South Carolina and my pilgrimage to Scott’s Variety Store. The [...]

Eating With Boykji: A Dining Diary in Five Parts

Tuesday 14 September 2010

In mid-August, my great friend and epic eating comrade Boykji visited New York for a whirlwind tour of the city’s eats. The five days I spent sharing meals with Boyk reminded me of how lucky I am to live in New York, where one can literally spend hours on end walking, eating and repeating without [...]

When Pigs Fly: The Serious Eats Barbecue Event Roundup

Wednesday 25 August 2010

My newest piece for Serious Eats is a primer and guide to competitions, cookouts and festivals in the world of American barbecue. Click to read!

Ono, No Umbrella

Friday 9 July 2010

I knew it! Hawaii is just one big tropical cliche, full of crystaline waters, forested hillsides, volcanoes and rainbows! Ono Hawaiian Food is not an engineered experience like a funded luau or professional hulu performance, but it is something similar. There is an atmosphere of maintained down-to-earth local life that reminds me of the waiter [...]