Hand-Pulled Hit Parade

Thursday 21 July 2011

He went from zero to vermicelli in 60 seconds. With two small white cords buoyantly stretched between his hands, a quick turn of the wrist swung one end towards the other. Fingers silently grappled the dough, producing strands that swept over the table below. Strands became noodles, noodles became strings, and for a brief moment [...]

Chicken A La Prince

Tuesday 23 November 2010

“You eat with your eyes first.” Fair enough. Here’s another one: “What game was the ref watching?” I’ll accept pride in plating, but when I order a tray of carne asada fries, a fistful of fried dumplings, or a Jack-in-the-Box taco, I calibrate my visual appetite accordingly. The same rule applies when I’m in line [...]

Taking Stock of a Sick Day

Tuesday 5 October 2010

Being bedridden with sickness for a week is one good way to confirm the myth that life in New York moves faster than it does anywhere else in the United States. As I spent the past 10 days contracting, realizing and recovering from a particularly nasty infection, countless food and drink events – some of [...]

A Pattie on the Back for Little Miss Muffin

Tuesday 10 August 2010

The Jamaican Patty was more or less foreign to me until a couple of months ago. I had passed by Golden Krust plenty of times en route to Popeyes, and I had heard tales of dried-up, unsavory offerings from deli counters and carts, but I had never felt the urge to seek out an authentic [...]

Popeyes’ Fried Chicken and the Virtue of Being #2

Tuesday 29 June 2010

Several years ago, I realized that The Impressions‘ “I’ve Been Trying” is my second favorite song of all time. My rationale behind naming this sweet piece of soul my definitive #2 lies in the fact that naming a definitive #1 is a hopeless and hollow act. Favorites shift over time and space, and while the [...]

The Wind Beneath Our Wings

Tuesday 18 May 2010

If you’ve done any kind of soul food searching in the borough of Manhattan, you know – or at least have been ordered to accept – that the story of New York City’s best fried chicken begins with Charles Gabriel. I became one of the many who give this kind of order on December 10, [...]

Masa en Place

Tuesday 4 May 2010

I am somehow amazed at how eager others are to broadcast where they’re eating. The dead horse lying at the junction of food, place and internet has been beaten to glue in the past few years, but there’s something about the virtual, real-time mapping of New York City that continues to irk me. Big words [...]

Every Thorn Has its Rose

Monday 1 February 2010

Over the past two months, the New York food press has buzzed intermittently around Dos Toros, lower Manhattan’s newest burrito joint. Most stories running on Dos Toros sprout from some combination of the words “burrito,” “San Francisco,” “Mission” and “California,” framing reviews with California ex-pats’ scorn for New York’s Mexican food in general and New [...]

Getting in Touch With My Baba Roots

Thursday 7 January 2010

This unscheduled post is part of the 93 Plates project. You can read Hagan Blount’s post on this meal here. At 8:00 p.m. on a January night, the stretch of Utica Ave. between Foster and Clarendon is a bleak row of auto repair shops, huge, rusted banners hanging over shuttered garages and the occasional fading [...]

2009: The Meals That Were

Friday 1 January 2010

The world has made it through the last gasp of 2009, and those of us here at The Eaten Path who haven’t been completely swept up in the holidays have taken some time to reflect on the year in bites. Our favorite meals? Vicky The best meal I had this year had something to do [...]