The first honest-to-goodness Philadelphian I ever met greeted me from behind a plainly planted table at 30th St. Station. Girlfriend and I had just gotten off the bus and circled the terminal in search of assurance. Spotting the phrase “Travelers Assistance,” I approached the man, who nursed a stack of unfolded maps and a nonchalant [...]
Happy New Year! It’s hard to believe that this blog has been alive for four years. It’s even harder to believe that in 2010 and 2009 I was able to bring on contributors from dining destinations are far-flung as Shanghai, Tokyo, Bonn, Majorca and even the American midwest. 2011 wasn’t quite as robust, since The [...]
First tastes are special. But the first taste of a favorite food – the first taste of a dish that gets everything right, lighting up an appetite unknown until that bite – is irreplaceable. It’s like watching the first scene of The Wire. The experience will always be enjoyable, but the thrill of being thrown [...]
It is possible to eat too much pork. One might not believe it, given the state of popular food today – especially in New York, where “pork belly” has become its own dining demographic. Enunciating one’s love for the pig was hardly a declarative act twenty years ago, when the very qualities of pork had [...]
In varying instances of hunger and maturity, I’ve wavered on the issue of deep dish pizza. I’ve never seemed to make up my mind on what makes a good one. When I was 11, Pizza Hut‘s pan pie was valued despite (because of) its orange-slicked handshake the morning after purchase. At age 18, the sweet, [...]
He went from zero to vermicelli in 60 seconds. With two small white cords buoyantly stretched between his hands, a quick turn of the wrist swung one end towards the other. Fingers silently grappled the dough, producing strands that swept over the table below. Strands became noodles, noodles became strings, and for a brief moment [...]
There’s an entire world of restaurants within the borders of New York City. Frankly, I find it hard to give a shit about the newest opening, ambitious concept, or chef’s achievement when virtually the entire world also exists within the borders of New York City. It exists in the form of a bowl of Xi’an [...]
My latest pieces for Serious Eats explore the medium-rare delight of Maryland’s Pit Beef sandwich and plumb the full menu at this year’s Big Apple Barbecue Block Party. New York’s Annual Moment in Barbecue Maryland Pit Beef: Barbecue in Rare Form
A recent conversation in the comments on this blog called into question the worth of a burrito, even at its best. The dichotomy drawn was one of convenience and choice: While a burrito embodies comfort and convenience, almost anything else offered over a taqueria’s counter will offer greater variety, manageable portions, and minimal filler. Underscoring [...]
Every good meal deserves a show stopper. The immediate clacking of chopsticks – springing back into pointed motion after twelve dishes and two cases of Tsingtao – was my sign that the lazy Susan had one last spin during an extensive supper at downtown Flushing’s Fu Run. Taking a victory lap around the table was [...]
