What We Talk About When We Talk About Soup Dumplings

Thursday 2 February 2012

My first conversation on xiaolongbao was one-way. As I recall, it consisted of Boykji explaining to me: “You’ve never had xiaolongbao? They’re the bomb.” Typically, when “the bomb” is used is a predicate, I expect disproportionate amounts of irony or gravity. Not so in this instance: When Boykji drops “the bomb,” the delivery mechanism tends [...]

This Little Piggy Was Deep Fried

Thursday 20 October 2011

It is possible to eat too much pork. One might not believe it, given the state of popular food today – especially in New York, where “pork belly” has become its own dining demographic. Enunciating one’s love for the pig was hardly a declarative act twenty years ago, when the very qualities of pork had [...]

The Search for Little Burma

Wednesday 27 July 2011

This story is third in a series on Burmese food in San Francisco. When tourists come to San Francisco, they eat Chinese food in Chinatown. There’s nothing wrong with that. Chinatown is a cool place, and there’s good food there. However, it isn’t too bold to claim that the best Chinese food in the Bay [...]

Real Cheap Eats NYC: The Real Deal

Tuesday 19 July 2011

There’s an entire world of restaurants within the borders of New York City. Frankly, I find it hard to give a shit about the newest opening, ambitious concept, or chef’s achievement when virtually the entire world also exists within the borders of New York City. It exists in the form of a bowl of Xi’an [...]

Food Touring the Tourist’s Way in Boston

Tuesday 3 May 2011

I don’t often play the role of “tourist,” but when Girlfriend and I spent a long weekend in Boston, I tried to put aside the hunt for local gems and regional food history that normally dominates my meals on the road. That’s how I ended up learning about the Penguin salt shake at the New [...]

D’ough!

Tuesday 26 April 2011

I grew up in a doughnut town. As soon as I was capable of grasping a tiger tail, I relished trips to our local doughnut shop. Not just because the mixed aroma of weak coffee, fried dough and sugar was the next best thing to freshly baked chocolate chip cookies for a kid, but also [...]

Pork Chop Price Discrimination

Tuesday 12 April 2011

Is $8.00 too much for this meal? The answer might depend on whether you’re the type of person to fork over $6 for bánh mì. After walking away from Bian Dang‘s stall at the still fresh Food Gallery 32, I proclaimed that their chicken leg dish was a tasty boatload of food for eight bucks. [...]

Chicken A La Prince

Tuesday 23 November 2010

“You eat with your eyes first.” Fair enough. Here’s another one: “What game was the ref watching?” I’ll accept pride in plating, but when I order a tray of carne asada fries, a fistful of fried dumplings, or a Jack-in-the-Box taco, I calibrate my visual appetite accordingly. The same rule applies when I’m in line [...]

When Pigs Fly: Southern Sides on the Carolina Barbecue Trail

Sunday 3 October 2010

My newest barbecue column for Serious Eats is the second of four stories I’m writing on my recent trip through the Carolinas. This piece is devoted to the incredible side dishes of North and South Carolina. Featured: Brunswick stew, hush puppies and the Palmetto state’s barbecue hash (pictured above), which is essentially the American South’s [...]

Eating With Boykji: A Dining Diary in Five Parts

Tuesday 21 September 2010

In mid-August, my great friend and epic eating comrade Boykji visited New York for a whirlwind tour of the city’s eats. The five days I spent sharing meals with Boyk reminded me of how lucky I am to live in New York, where one can literally spend hours on end walking, eating and repeating without [...]