Established, Philly Style

Tuesday 27 March 2012

The first honest-to-goodness Philadelphian I ever met greeted me from behind a plainly planted table at 30th St. Station. Girlfriend and I had just gotten off the bus and circled the terminal in search of assurance. Spotting the phrase “Travelers Assistance,” I approached the man, who nursed a stack of unfolded maps and a nonchalant [...]

2011: The Meals That Were

Sunday 1 January 2012

Happy New Year! It’s hard to believe that this blog has been alive for four years. It’s even harder to believe that in 2010 and 2009 I was able to bring on contributors from dining destinations are far-flung as Shanghai, Tokyo, Bonn, Majorca and even the American midwest. 2011 wasn’t quite as robust, since The [...]

Single Serving: Stuffed Pizza at Lou Malnati’s in Chicago, IL

Tuesday 20 September 2011

In varying instances of hunger and maturity, I’ve wavered on the issue of deep dish pizza. I’ve never seemed to make up my mind on what makes a good one. When I was 11, Pizza Hut‘s pan pie was valued despite (because of) its orange-slicked handshake the morning after purchase. At age 18, the sweet, [...]

Hot Dog. Signed, Chicago.

Friday 9 September 2011

Chicago is Heaven on Earth for people who love dated signage, and quite possibly Hell in neon for those who don’t. Every self-respecting bar in Chicago seems to be the victim of some kind of small business moratorium on renovation, disallowed from admitting that America made it through the ’70s and convinced that the people [...]

Single Serving: Lemon Ice Box Pie at Lois the Pie Queen in Oakland

Tuesday 30 August 2011

Floridians can get surly when it comes to Key Lime Pie. I don’t blame them when bakeries across California serve too-sweet lime pies colored green and label them “Key” on menus. I’ve never tried the real thing, but breakfasts at Lois the Pie Queen have got me thinking: Maybe the best key lime pie in [...]

When Pigs Fly: Uncle John’s in Chicago (Where Barbecue Gets Sauced)

Wednesday 24 August 2011

My latest column for Serious Eats is the first of two stories on Chicago’s Southside, where ribs come fiercely smoky and typically smothered in a barbecue sauce that is not for the meek.

D’ough!

Tuesday 26 April 2011

I grew up in a doughnut town. As soon as I was capable of grasping a tiger tail, I relished trips to our local doughnut shop. Not just because the mixed aroma of weak coffee, fried dough and sugar was the next best thing to freshly baked chocolate chip cookies for a kid, but also [...]

California Love: A Perfect Pickled Egg at Joe Jost’s

Wednesday 19 January 2011

For the next week, I’ll be writing short posts on the meals I enjoyed during a two-week vacation in my native California. There’s a bar in Long Beach that recognizes what every pickled egg in this country is missing: chilies. Rather than submerging its hard boiled eggs in beet-tinted brine, Joe Jost’s imbues them with [...]

California Love: In-N-Out

Tuesday 18 January 2011

For the next week, I’ll be writing short posts on the meals I enjoyed during a two-week vacation in my native California. My first hour in California runs like clockwork: Get off the plane. Find a restroom. Pick up my baggage. Drive to In-N-Out. Plenty have followed this routine for years, and plenty others have [...]

Eating With Boykji: A Dining Diary in Five Parts

Wednesday 15 September 2010

In mid-August, my great friend and epic eating comrade Boykji visited New York for a whirlwind tour of the city’s eats. The five days I spent sharing meals with Boyk reminded me of how lucky I am to live in New York, where one can literally spend hours on end walking, eating and repeating without [...]