Gonna Take Her Back to Somerville

Tuesday 10 May 2011

While Girlfriend and I weren’t out touring Boston at the end of April, we rested our heads in nearby Somerville. The neighborhoods of this town, bordering three major universities and cradling the last stretch of the Red Line out of Boston, have been through more than one wave of history – including the familiar story [...]

D’ough!

Tuesday 26 April 2011

I grew up in a doughnut town. As soon as I was capable of grasping a tiger tail, I relished trips to our local doughnut shop. Not just because the mixed aroma of weak coffee, fried dough and sugar was the next best thing to freshly baked chocolate chip cookies for a kid, but also [...]

Over The Counter

Wednesday 15 December 2010

Picture a classic Thanksgiving dinner, when an extended family gathers around a mythically long table. Each seat is filled, and each person can look ahead to see a feast atop tablecloth and a close relative or friend. It’s a scene of domesticity and community, something reserved for sit-coms and too-perfect households, rife with interpersonal drama, [...]

Memphis, May I?

Tuesday 25 May 2010

I haven’t been able to complete my story for this week, mostly because I was busy wrapping up my latest piece of Serious Eats! If you haven’t already seen my coverage of the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest, click through the following series of pieces to learn about the largest pork competition [...]

Pleasant Grill

Friday 5 February 2010

My first and strongest impression of Mill Valley, CA can be found in television reruns. Captain B.J. Hunnicutt of the 4077th proudly hailed from the up-and-coming Marin County township, and for years he was my sole example by which to measure it. Thanks to M*A*S*H, my mental picture of Mill Valley teemed with laid-back, wise-cracking, [...]

Pancaked, Burgered and Shanghaied in California

Tuesday 19 January 2010

Can you name this dining counter? If so, you’ve had the privilege of tasting one of America’s finest burgers. If not, you’ll get your answer below the fold. This is the last of the point-and-eat posts from my holiday in California. I’ve saved what are probably my three favorite meals of the two weeks I [...]

Breakfast Is Not a Stage

Tuesday 15 December 2009

I live for BBQ. I wake up for breakfast. Those who know me best will understand when I say that American breakfast is the backbone of my appetite. If done right, it’s cheap, satisfying and timeless. Two eggs over easy have nowhere to hide and everything to prove, especially when they’re on short order. Some [...]

Only One Way to Eat a Brace of Coneys

Tuesday 24 November 2009

This is a guest post. Matthew Wolfe is a journalist living in Detroit. Many major American cities, particularly those that once, long ago, would have been called “blue collar,” can claim as part of their civic heritage a signature junk food. The food is usually messy, often greasy and always – to borrow a term [...]

Pie Pie Birdie

Friday 30 October 2009

Twenty years before Elvis was drafted, the San Diego Chicken Pie Shop was expanding hips instead of shaking them. With a different war looming, southerners flocked to California for work and were rewarded with a little piece of home: chicken pot pies, mashed potatoes and gravy. Business boomed. Lines snaked out the door. More chicken [...]

As Lucky Would Have It

Friday 24 July 2009

The first time I came across Lucky’s, it was in the afternoon and the lights were off. I could barely see into the dark interior, a serpentine breakfast counter of questionable upkeep, but the old-timey Americana feel had me before I ever took a step inside. Lucky’s looked like my kind of place. Then I [...]