Archives: 'Los Angeles'

Happy Opening Day!

Friday 6 April 2012

Baseball season is back. That means I’m going to eat some hot dogs soon. And I’m excited. I shouldn’t be, not considering the cost. Those between-inning lines are a bitch, standing in front of angry fans looking for beer number three, and behind slow dads buying meals for big families. The condiment dispensers never work [...]

Serious Eats: Tales From Chicago and Santa Maria

Monday 13 February 2012

To recap my recent work for Serious Eats, in case you haven’t kept up with us on Facebook: Serious Barbecue and Birria in Chicago After writing about Uncle John’s and the style of barbecue on Chicago’s South Side, I devoted an entire column to the smoky miracle of the Chicago-style rib tip. A feature on [...]

Single Serving: Yak Chili at Tara’s Himalayan Cuisine in Culver City, Los Angeles

Wednesday 4 January 2012

Don’t be so modest, Tara. You can take that question mark off the sign. Yak is the enlightened meat. It’s lean like buffalo but juicy like beef. It’s raised at high elevation in the Himalayas and in Colorado, this mystical creature that exists, in my experience, in exotic children’s books and adventure tales, up among [...]

Single Serving: La Salsa Chilena at Select Stores, San Diego and L.A.

Monday 3 October 2011

Somewhere in the world is a person microwaving Kraft singles on a Mission tortilla and covering it with Pace salsa. There’s nothing wrong with that. I’ve done it. It’s delicious, even if it is a high-density, high-sodium brick of cheese flour covered in a sauce that is way too many parts sugar. I’m not judging, [...]

Single Serving: Corned Beef Hash at Pepy’s Galley in West L.A.

Thursday 22 September 2011

I love diners with a love that transcends the quality of food, to the point where personality and convenience can be enough to make or break a meal before the food ever hits the table. I’m a big fan of Norm’s in L.A. at two in the morning. I’m a big fan of Denny’s when [...]

Los Trucking Angeles

Thursday 9 June 2011

“Street food” is a misleading term, at least in this country. A hot dog stand in suburban Chicago probably has more square footage and seating than three San Francisco Thai restaurants. Mariscos German and Mariscos El Pescador in San Diego are theoretically taco trucks, but they always camp out in parking lots with permanent seating, [...]

Taiwanese Breakfast on the Four Seas

Wednesday 26 January 2011

I grew up knowing that I was on the very edge of Los Angeles. My proof was Colima Road, a stretch of smoggy two-way lanes dominated by Mandarin and Korean print, save the occassional taco truck and L.A.’s easternmost branch of Tommy’s. As the years have gone by, this and other satellites of Southern California’s [...]

California Love: Gone Pescando

Monday 24 January 2011

For the next week, I’ll be writing short posts on the meals I enjoyed during a two-week vacation in my native California. Every time I’m handed a bowl of chips at a Mexican restaurant, I get the feeling that my life is a series of salsa verdes, each more addictive than the last. The distinctly [...]

California Love: Can I Barro a Feeling?

Friday 21 January 2011

For the next week, I’ll be writing short posts on the meals I enjoyed during a two-week vacation in my native California. Exactly what the hell is “California pizza?” A casual glance at my home state offers glimmers of hope, but only amidst a tasteless slurry of industrial-grade delivery chains, “New York” style pizzerias that [...]

California Love: A Perfect Pickled Egg at Joe Jost’s

Wednesday 19 January 2011

For the next week, I’ll be writing short posts on the meals I enjoyed during a two-week vacation in my native California. There’s a bar in Long Beach that recognizes what every pickled egg in this country is missing: chilies. Rather than submerging its hard boiled eggs in beet-tinted brine, Joe Jost’s imbues them with [...]