Author Archive

What We Talk About When We Talk About Soup Dumplings

Thursday 2 February 2012

My first conversation on xiaolongbao was one-way. As I recall, it consisted of Boykji explaining to me: “You’ve never had xiaolongbao? They’re the bomb.” Typically, when “the bomb” is used is a predicate, I expect disproportionate amounts of irony or gravity. Not so in this instance: When Boykji drops “the bomb,” the delivery mechanism tends [...]

Single Serving: Grilled Spicy Beef Salad at Pure Thai Cookhouse in Hell’s Kitchen, Manhattan

Wednesday 25 January 2012

Pure Thai Shophouse has changed its name at Chipotle’s behest, but superior cooking – not to mention a fiercer chili – continues unabated at what is one of New York’s best thai restaurants. Pure Thai’s menu, especially its lunch menu, offers a variety of “snacks” that blend street food and home cooking under a chef’s [...]

Real Cheap Eats NYC: The Winter Edition

Sunday 22 January 2012

I’ve been too beleaguered by a nasty cold to spread the word properly over the past week, but in case you haven’t heard from the rest of the city: Real Cheap Eats NYC now has 22 more recommendations under $10. This season we’re keeping things relatively lean, with one recommendation per blogger (except for newcomer [...]

Single Serving: Sev Batata Puri at Hamro Aangan in Albany, CA

Monday 9 January 2012

Indian food enthusiasts in Berkeley, Albany and El Cerrito have a new go-to in Hamro Aangan, a relatively new Indo-Nepalese restaurant separated from the U.C. campus by several miles of the actual city of Berkeley. A meal here is worth the trip, by bus or by car, for pretty much anyone interested in serious flavor. [...]

2011: The Meals That Were

Sunday 1 January 2012

Happy New Year! It’s hard to believe that this blog has been alive for four years. It’s even harder to believe that in 2010 and 2009 I was able to bring on contributors from dining destinations are far-flung as Shanghai, Tokyo, Bonn, Majorca and even the American midwest. 2011 wasn’t quite as robust, since The [...]

Neveria Again

Friday 9 December 2011

I have never seen a Michoacan ice cream parlor off of Interstate 5. Now that I know of one that sits in the shadow of US-101, I see little reason to drive along the 5 again. There are, of course, other reasons for choosing US-101 over I-5 if a trip calls for traversing the 400 [...]

Single Serving: Clay Pot Rice at Noodle Village in Chinatown, Manhattan

Monday 28 November 2011

First tastes are special. But the first taste of a favorite food – the first taste of a dish that gets everything right, lighting up an appetite unknown until that bite – is irreplaceable. It’s like watching the first scene of The Wire. The experience will always be enjoyable, but the thrill of being thrown [...]

Single Serving: Chicha at Arepas Cafe in Astoria, Queens

Friday 18 November 2011

After a recent trip to the Socrates sculpture garden, Girlfriend and I struck out for Arepas Cafe on the south side of Astoria. While we were there to enjoy the restaurant’s tasty Venezuelan arepas, Latin American drink menus are always eye-catching, and we couldn’t slip away without ordering cold glasses of chica and toddy ($4.75 [...]

Single Serving: Kuti’s in Morningside Heights, Manhattan

Wednesday 2 November 2011

Plenty of people move to New York with the full intent of conquering the big city. Whatever they believe happens next, conquest is not it. Agreement on this sentiment is a bond I share with Mike, the daytime cook at Kuti’s Place. As he carves slices of fatty lamb from the glistening, heavily stacked spit [...]

Single Serving: Bokkumbop (Fried Rice) at Tong Samgyeop Gui in Flushing, Queens

Thursday 27 October 2011

Rice is rarely this audacious. Jinro is rarely the right choice. At a modest Korean restaurant in the far reaches of Queens, the rare thrill dormant in both staples springs to life in one sizzling sitting. Containing white rice soaked in a spicy marinade, a portentous mixing bowl greets the happy diners at Flushing’s Tong [...]