The egg tart is perhaps not as lionized as the soup dumpling, but it can be just as much the subject of fantasy. Praises have been sung. Lists have been compiled. At least one film has been made. A good egg tart – not too sweet, barely savory and held together by a tender, flaky crust – can be the stuff of cravings without becoming the death of them.
A good egg tart, thanks to its price and a lifespan of about eight seconds, can also inspire cravings where none exist. When Max proposed, on a recent trip to Flushing, that we cap a lengthy food crawl with egg tarts from the unassuming New Flushing Bakery, suggestion and imperative sprung together into one overstuffed paper sack.
My favorite is the Portugese-style tart ($1.25 for one, $3.75 for four). Fresh out of the oven, it’s almost too delicate to hold. After a few minutes, its texture is perfect: Edges are toasty and browned, puff pastry flakes and dissolves in the same bite, and a light, creamy filling quivers at the touch. A hint of almond rounds out the flavors of the tart, which is an edible seminar on the subtleties of good baking.
New Flushing Bakery
39022 Main St.
Queens, NY 11354