I love diners with a love that transcends the quality of food, to the point where personality and convenience can be enough to make or break a meal before the food ever hits the table. I’m a big fan of Norm’s in L.A. at two in the morning. I’m a big fan of Denny’s when the time is right, and I’m pretty sure I’d be a big fan of Waffle House if ever there comes a time when I’m lucky enough to find one.
Then there are times when everything that makes diners great intersects with everything that makes food great. Diners by their nature cut quality for convenience, but every once in awhile there’s an exception, like Jodie’s, like Lois, like Tokyo 7-7 (R.I.P.), and it’s those kinds of exceptions that keep me trolling the eaten path instead of learning how to cook. It’s those kinds of exceptions that I live for, and one of those exceptions can be found in a corner diner in a corner bowling alley at the corner of Mar Vista in West Los Angeles. Pepy’s Galley is like any other of L.A.’s Mexican-American breakfast greasy spoons, though it’s better than most, an unlikely quality of cookery for a place that you might walk into wearing bowling shoes.
But on Wednesdays Pepy’s can be more than just an above average breakfast spot, because on Wednesdays, the special is Corned Beef Hash. Soft, large chunks of corned beef laugh in the face of the word diced. Blackened edges add just enough crisp and charred flavor to balance the fatty meat with gooey egg. Round it out with coffee and potatoes – I’m sure it doesn’t get any better.
12125 Venice Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90066