Food Touring the Tourist’s Way in Boston

3 May 2011 - James Boo

New England Aquarium - Boston, MA
I don’t often play the role of “tourist,” but when Girlfriend and I spent a long weekend in Boston, I tried to put aside the hunt for local gems and regional food history that normally dominates my meals on the road. That’s how I ended up learning about the Penguin salt shake at the New England Aquarium, rather than drinking a penguin salt shake in a Chinatown basement.

Mike's Pastry - Peanut Cannoli - Boston, MA Mike's Pastry - Espresso Cannoli - Boston, MA
Our visit to Mike’s Pastry got me thinking on what it means to call a restaurant a “tourist trap.” If Magnolia Bakery can be called a tourist trap, should I do the same for Mike’s? And how exactly do we speak to the fact that most “tourist traps” are neither traps, nor are they expressly pointed at tourists?

That said, an oversized, $3 cannolo not much better than what I can have at Rocco’s in New York isn’t exactly where I would point visitors if I were a local. But Mike’s still has perfectly competent pastries, a bit of class, and a good dose of charm, and I didn’t feel cheated in the slightest as we walked up and down the streets of Boston’s north end, tiny chocolate chips tumbling off as we shared a dessert that plenty of Bostonians have been enjoying for years.

Pizzeria Regina - Margherita Pie - Boston, MA
Pizzeria Regina - Margherita Pie - Boston, MA Pizzeria Regina - Margherita Pie - Boston, MA
Likewise, dinner at Pizzeria Regina wasn’t exactly a culinary landmark, but it was still wholly enjoyable to duck into this almost-century-old pizzeria, sink into the joint’s subdued clamor, and dig into a hearty margherita pie.

While Regina’s atmosphere mirrored that of Grimaldi’s or Totonno’s, its pizza had a distinctly less refined bent. Heavy coats of tomato sauce and mozzarella, more comforting than tantalizing, resembled the kind of pizza I grew up with. The pie’s brick-oven crust, pleasingly crisp and unevenly browned on its bottom, was a highlight, despite its less memorable flavor, and made this the kind of local favorite I’d spring for over pitchers of beer as a Boston resident.

Island Creek Oyster Bar - 500 Commonwealth Ave. - Boston, MA
An upscale dinner with my friend Brendan at Island Creek Oyster Bar was quite the opposite. For me, this meal was a happy compromise between the Chowhound hero and the pricey, special-occasion meal, and I truly loved it.

Island Creek Oyster Bar - 500 Commonwealth Ave. - Boston, MA
Island Creek Oyster Bar - 500 Commonwealth Ave. - Boston, MA Fish and Chips - Island Creek Oyster Bar - 500 Commonwealth Ave. - Boston, MA
The restaurant’s raw oysters, ranging from $2.00 to $4.00 depending on how far they traveled to be eaten down the road from Fenway Park, make a delicious meal entirely on their own. Of the four New England varieties we sampled, Island Creek’s own Duxbury oysters were my personal favorite – I’m no oyster shucker, but their balanced, not-too-briny flavor and clean, sweet finish made for the refreshing, addictive gulp that I’m sure a good oyster embodies.

Island Creek’s bread, studded with carraway seeds and bits of rosemary and served with a pat of particularly sweet butter, would have been enough to round out the meal. The house’s fish and chips turned out to be a happy addition, each hunk of whiting encased in crisp, puffy beer batter and each chip tasting faintly of fresh potato. The entire spread was nicely capped by Island Creek’s house pilsner, a clean, palate-cleansing brew with a bittersweet tint, especially well suited for washing down fresh seafood.

Harpoon Brewery Tour - Boston, MA
Oysters, and beer continued their love affair at Harpoon Brewery, where we took a factory tour and tasted every one of Harpoon’s beers on tap for $5. It’s an experience I would recommend to pretty much anyone who likes beer, especially stouts. While I’ve never been impressed by the brewery’s flagship IPA, I was won over immediately by their limited run Oyster Stout – a crisp, drinkable stout whose salt-and-mineral flavors make its roasted, malty flavors pop that much more. I found this one so tasty and refreshing that I lugged four big bottles back to New York after downing three ounces of the stuff.

Yankee Lobster Roll - Boston, MA
In what was probably the biggest tourist move of our weekend, Girlfriend and I ordered $18 lobster rolls at Yankee Lobster Fish Market, just around the corner from the brewery. Too much mayo and too much mincing got in the way of what was actually pretty decent lobster, but at that point I was in little position to complain. The fact that Yankee Lobster’s fries were expertly double-fried helped quite a bit, but so did the fact that I was on spring vacation with a wonderful lady.

Sometimes enjoying the simple things actually requires simplifying how you go about the day – food included. Maybe that’s what turns a tourist trap into a tactical meal. Maybe it’s just worth shutting my mouth once in a while to smell the oysters. Either way, I’m looking forward to the next sunny weekend in a world where food isn’t my everything.

Island Creek Oyster Bar
500 Commonwealth Ave.
Boston, MA 02215
617.532.5300
Mike’s Pastry
300 Hanover St.
Boston, Massachusetts 02113
617.742.3050
Pizzeria Regina
11 Thacher St.
Boston, MA 02113
617.227.0765
Harpoon Brewery
306 Northern Ave.
Boston, MA 02210
617.574.9551

Yankee Lobster Fish Market
300 Northern Ave.
Boston, MA 02210
617.345.9799
Share this story. Stay hungry.
  1. JO Says:

    I want all a those

  2. veronica Says:

    seems like you and cassie had an awesome time :)

    gotta say, those oysters hooked me into the post. did they taste as good as they look?

  3. hungry Says:

    This post made me really miss Boston. I will now hound my man for a weekend trip. Thanks for the reminder!

  4. ami Says:

    the next time you’re in town, mike & patty’s in the back bay-ish is a must must must stop. that is all.

  5. James Boo Says:

    Veronica – the oysters were fantastic! And this is the first time I’ve sat down and actually compared the subtle differences between different strains. Some were meatier, others chewier, and others had a more pronounced briny flavor. I’m looking forward to doing it again :)

    hungry – I actually have a second post on two Somerville places we ate at in store for next week. Hopefully that will add to your list as well!

    Ami – Thanks for the recommendation. I’ll be sure to check it out the next time I’m in the area.

  6. Zach Says:

    Want that lobster roll.

  7. Nicholas Says:

    I’m pretty sure the body language expressed in that sign is not unique to penguins. Everything there is applicable to humans too. Except for the salt shake. Maybe.

  8. James Boo Says:

    Dude, sometimes that salt has got to go.

  9. Foodie-in-Tehran Says:

    Oysters- Slurp slurp slurp! I had them with my Hubs in Paris at a place on the sidewalk (I know, almost all their ‘places’ are on the sidewalk)…it was piled high on this giant tiered monster and there were lobsters, crab legs, and shrimp (sorry, Prawns *eye roll here*). They were so good. Parisians were stunned as we glomped down one after another- lemon juice and red wine and all. SICK. Heh.

    That pizza looks like the kind I make at home— mmmmm, but I’ve yet to go to NY. Would love to get my grubby hands on some of those Pizza killers you’re talkin’ about. We are still waiting to go, where I have promised the Hubs that all I will be doing is eating and in between we can talk and walk lol.

    Those Penguins are cute as a button! I honestly thought those Cannelonis were eggrolls with chocolate chips on the end O.o. Don’t know why.

  10. James Boo Says:

    Foodie, this is a very good time to be a pizza lover in New York. We’ve got the best in neighborhood slices, New York coal oven neopolitan, and neo-neopolitan, plus incredible classics just a train ride away in New Haven and north Jersey. It’s impossible not to find a “pizza killer” within each of the styles, so if you’ve been hungering for a good pie out in Tehran, just a few days in the city will be enough to seriously raise the bar :)

    Hooray for penguins!

  11. David Farris Says:

    sessa’s in davis square (somerville), which i learned of from boyk, is the place for cannoli. i wish i’d known of it when i was actually living in cambridge. at mike’s, you want the lobster tail.

  12. James Boo Says:

    David, we actually did have the lobster tail at Mike’s, and it was wonderful! It’s too bad I didn’t know about Sessa’s — I actually was staying not too far from Davis Square, and had a couple of great meals in Somerville that I’ll be writing up this week :]

  13. David Farris Says:

    yeah, nobody seems to know about it, but apparently it’s been there decades. the cannoli are filled to order! looking forward to reading the rest of somerville.

  14. Liat Says:

    After eating a cannoli at Mike’s, any west coast cannoli tasted like chalky won ton wrapped sugarness. Then again, I have not had the cannoli in New York and I daydream about New York pizza in general.

    I really enjoyed the beer selection and surprisingly enough, the food at the Publick House in Brookline.

  15. David Farris Says:

    Liat: there are reasonable ones in north beach.

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