When I was young, sandwiches signified failure. Aside from the Vietnamese banh mi and Mexican tortas that dot the outer rim of Los Angeles and Orange County, the deli of Southern California was a dining destination of last resort, an overpriced and under-qualified meal at the ubiquitous feet of In-N-Out, bargain sushi, Indian buffets and [...]
“You eat with your eyes first.” Fair enough. Here’s another one: “What game was the ref watching?” I’ll accept pride in plating, but when I order a tray of carne asada fries, a fistful of fried dumplings, or a Jack-in-the-Box taco, I calibrate my visual appetite accordingly. The same rule applies when I’m in line [...]
Robert F. Moss’ Barbecue: The History of an American Institution The Serious Eats Barbecue Style Guide, Part I My newest barbecue columns for Serious Eats review some essential barbecue reading and set out the first part of what will become a fairly epic guide to barbecue styles in the United States of America. Yyyabba Dabba [...]
In early September, I spent five days in the Carolinas. Most of my time was spent sniffing out stories in barbecue country, and those experiences became the core of Serious Eats columns on the Lexington style, barbecue sides in the Carolinas, the Mustard belt of South Carolina and my pilgrimage to Scott’s Variety Store. The [...]
A good pho dining experience is a ritual. The waiter points at an empty table. You take a seat and order the #1. You grab your chopsticks, your soup spoon and your sauce dish. You prepare a cocktail of chili paste and hoisin, set your sauce and silverware in front of you with great care [...]
I have a hard time separating immigrants from their food. When my conversation teacher in St. Petersburg announced in September of 2006 that Russian officials were implementing the deportation of Georgians in Moscow, my thoughts turned to Mexico and the inane wall being debated by the U.S. Congress. The comparison wasn’t perfect, but it stuck [...]
Part One: Roundup Part Two: Judging My newest barbecue columns for Serious Eats tell the story of my experience as a first-time certified KCBS judge at “The Jack,” America’s most prestigious barbecue competition. As is to be expected in the world of controversial foods, the most passionate of barbecue partisans have negative things to say. [...]
“When you eat together, then you really get the appetite.” Sage words coming from the local businessmen sitting beside my table of four. After several amused glances in our direction, they break into full smiles at the sight of an enormous platter descending upon their table. They shift focus to a mountain of Wolof (or [...]
