I’m not wont to talk about clichés or stereotypes, but I’m afraid the topic of beer is inescapable when writing about Germany. The world’s most renowned producer of this beloved libation simply cannot be discussed without at least some mention of it. Before you roll your eyes, though, let me assure you that I’m not here to talk about the drink itself, but about the culture surrounding it – and I’m going to talk about it in the context of Bonn’s beloved biergartens.

In the United States we associate the phrase “beer garden” with any place that serves beer outdoors. While that wouldn’t be too far off from the definition here in Germany, 98% of “beer gardens” in the US are what the Germans call terrasse (a terrace) – yup, those precise Germans have done it again with their witty, exact language.

A true biergarten here in Germany actually involves a drinking establishment situated more or less in the confines of nature. A biergarten is not just a deck attached to a restaurant. It is a place, most times situated in a park, a nature reserve, near a river, in the mountains – basically anywhere patrons can truly feel like they’re in nature (and Germans do love them some nature).

We here in the U.S. are restricted from the true definition of a biergarten due to much stricter alcohol consumption laws. Biergartens here in Germany are typically wide open, with benches as the only boundaries between drinker and nature. On a nice, hot day or evening in the summer time, there is nothing quite like enjoying a cold beer out in the wide open, but something tells me such boundless beer consumption in the States would be strictly verboten.

Ask any Bonn resident about the best biergarten in this city, and before you finish your question you will be told, “Alter Zoll” (“old toll”). Technically the Alter Zoll is the public lookout point situated next to the biergarten, but given its proximity, the biergarten has adopted the same name – it is also known as Biergarten am Alten Zoll (“Beergarden at the old toll”). Wooden benches, gravel ground and a beautiful, giant tree which lovingly drapes itself over all of the drinkers compose this beer drinker’s haven.

Beer gardens are meant to be simple, and it couldn’t be any simpler here: Take a seat, order a beer from one of the student waiters, and you are greeted with a wonderful view over the Rhine River, whose windy path slowly fades out into the green hills, known as the Siebengebirge. In such a surrounding, it’s impossible to keep your consumption just to one beer. If you get bored looking out on the Rhine and all of the passing ships (impossible!), a glance in the other direction will treat you to a scene of bocce ball players who have established the small field next to this biergarten as the place in Bonn to play Boule.

A quick hop over the Kennedy bridge will bring you to the other side of the Rhine, referred to as Bonn-Beuel. Near the bridge you’ll find another beloved biergarten, Bahnhöfchen (‘little train station’). This former train station now serves as a restaurant and biergarten that affords views of the Rhine from the side of the river facing downtown Bonn and setting suns. It also is situated directly on the bike-and-pedestrian path, making it a convenient stop for anyone traversing the river. Although Bahnhöfchen also serves a selection of food, when I visit I usually keep to my meal of choice – beer – and enjoy watching the passers-by who have made the poor choice to suffer from their jogging, biking, or walking rather than partake in a cold beverage.

The other type of biergarten in Bonn that merits mention is, in fact, the one I like most. Although you won’t find this one on any map, nor will you be able to ask around for any specific location, it is known by almost all students in this city (and given the large university here, there are plenty of students in the know).

This would be the unofficial biergarten, the one created when friends find a nice, grassy place outdoors, bring their own drinks and enjoy their evening in the open. My personal favorite is the field across from the Alter Zoll, where in the evenings I find plenty of groups hanging out, playing music, and simply talking the night away.

The unofficial biergarten, just as with the official biergarten, is the result of Germany’s lax alcohol laws, which allow denizens to consume alcohol in public. If I’m caught with no beer at home, I simply pick up a few cold ones along the way from one of the many kiosks found throughout the city; in a pinch I can also buy take-away beer from the Alter Zoll. And because there are public restrooms right next to the field, this unofficial biergarten is an ideal spot for all to enjoy a summer refreshment.

Like most German cities, Bonn has no shortage of biergartens, and given its scenic hillsides and ideal setting along the Rhine, Bonn’s residents have made good use of the beauty surrounding them. If you ever make it to Bonn in warm weather, be sure to hug a tree, enjoy some fresh air, and stop to smell the roses.

And, oh yeah: Enjoy some beer!

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This entry was posted on Monday, June 21st, 2010 at 3:22 pm and is filed under Bonn.