I take pride in my ability to operate beyond the habit of “point-and-eat” food blogging.

The day Pies n Thighs returned to Williamsburg – opening its doors one block from my front door and mere hours after the Week of Eating In had ended – was no occasion for pride. It was an occasion for nonstop eating. And pointing. Oohing, aahing, and reveling in the moment I’d been awaiting for over two years. After five visits in as many days, I’m all too happy to tip my revelry cup with the following highlights of one of my favorite places to eat:

The Chicken Biscuit – $5

At first glance Pies n Thighs’ revived chicken biscuit seems an awkward update of the original – the new deal gives us a slightly smaller biscuit, bigger chicken filet, and less-than-crunchy exterior. These differences aside, this is still one of the best deals in town: undeniably moist, brimming with flavor and joyously doused in that loving mix of Louisiana hot sauce and honey butter (honey as an adjective, not an ingredient separate or equal to butter, is key here).

If the fact that you can order this during breakfast hours doesn’t send you running for the train to Williamsburg, remind me to punch you in the back of the neck the next time we meet.

The Chicken Box – $11


Packing an equal amount of bang for buck is Pies n Thighs’ fried chicken, arguably the best choice on the menu and victor over its counterparts all over town on the terms of value alone. It doesn’t hurt, of course, that the chicken is a shining example of the fluffy-yet-crunchy style that can make eating atomic payloads of grease and salt feel like munching on flower petals made of sunshine.

Pies n Thighs doesn’t offer the fried chicken box for breakfast, but I’ve eaten it out of the fridge first thing in the morning, and it most definitely works.

The Catfish Box – $10

Catfish was the fried offering I looked forward to most during my week of Pies and Thighs, and it did not disappoint. The attention to detail – in the quality of the fish, the gritty breading of the filets, the dual application of tartar and hot sauce, the two thick slices of pickle on sweet slaw, and the greased-to-a-crisp wedge of cornbread on the side – forms an incredibly top-heavy ratio of love-to-bite, not to mention the favorable balance of flavor to cost.

The Pulled Pork Sandwich – $10

I haven’t gotten a chance to talk to the fine folks at Pies n Thighs about just how they’ve been cooking their barbecue. On my first and second tastes, the pulled pork in this sandwich didn’t seem to have a trace of wood smoke, and the vinegar that had once been applied in liberal punches took more of a backseat, smoothing over the edge that made me love this item so much. Nostalgia for a more brutal form of barbecue aside, the messy meshing of flavors and textures in this sandwich still reigns over most other attempts at pulled pork I’ve tried in New York.

The Doughnut and Coffee – $2.50

While nothing will ever replace the glory of Peter Pan, the appearance of a brilliant and distinct old fashioned doughnut one minute from my apartment will definitely force me to examine my loyalties. Dancing outside the perimeter of cake and sprinkling cinnamon and sugar wherever it goes, this crusty ring of fried dough is just big enough to fill its own dish and just just humble enough to fit into a routine.

The Sides – $4


Not all side dishes here are created equal, but collard greens, baked beans, black eyed peas, cheese grits and slaw are all standouts that I’d recommend. The collards at Pies n Thighs are almost a destination dish in and of themselves: Hearty, smoky, spicy and porky, they make a strong case for the restaurant’s Southern cooking credentials.

The Rest of the Menu
I have yet to complete my homecoming tour of Pies n Thighs’ full menu, and I’m all kinds of excited for their brisket sandwich, their burger (supplied by the Meat Hook), their tar heel pie and their waffle (even if this means I have to put up with the nonsense that is weekend brunch).

The Space

Pies n Thighs was originally located in the back room of the Rock Star Bar. When the joint closed down in 2008, its owners promised “a newer, better hole in the wall,” and they have delivered. The effortlessly vintage expressions of comfort and familiarity that made the original location so inviting are fully intact, with over twice as much space and a lot more natural light to accommodate those warm, fuzzy feelings of deep fried affection.

I intend to reciprocate those feelings in full. At the least, I’ll get very full trying.

Pies n Thighs
166 S. 4th St.
Brooklyn, NY 11211
347.529.6090

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, March 9th, 2010 at 11:51 pm and is filed under New York.