Smoking at the Skylight Inn
3 November 2009 - James Boo
James Howell has been working as one of the main pit cooks of Pete Jones’ BBQ, AKA The Skylight Inn, in Ayden, North Carolina, for about fifteen years. The day I spent with him and the rest of Pete Jones’ staff in October of 2009 will figure heavily into a proposal I’m writing for a book on American BBQ, to be pitched vigorously in 2010.
This post documents a single day with a steward of culinary history.
Those who don’t wish to see dead pigs be warned at this juncture.
The Skylight Inn is one of the few remaining barbecue restaurants in America to cook whole hogs over wood coals. Sixteen hours of smoke before the first quarter of the day is cut. No gas, electricity, steel, liquid smoke or sauce. No shortcuts. When it comes to traditional American barbecue, quitters never prosper.
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November 3rd, 2009 at 10:55 am
I’m glad to have experienced this place, even if it meant a two- or three-hour detour! Its pork–with the bits of crackling–is something I’m sure I’ll miss to my dying day.
Joon S.
http://vinicultured.com
November 3rd, 2009 at 6:40 pm
Great collage.
However.
I question your use of the phrase “quitters never prosper” so close to a picture of mentholated cigarettes.
November 5th, 2009 at 10:02 am
This pictorial is amazing. I love the transformation of pig to yummy-looking smoked pork.
November 6th, 2009 at 3:39 pm
Amazing. This really is a detailed view into a distinctly American culinary talent that is as interesting and skillful as wine making in France or the beer-massaged cows in Japan. Outstanding work!
November 6th, 2009 at 4:09 pm
Social comments and analytics for this post…
This post was mentioned on Twitter by theeatenpath: Pete Jones’ BBQ a.k.a. The Skylight Inn, Ayden, North Carolina: A day in photos with the pit cook James Howell. http://bit.ly/nc-pit...
November 10th, 2009 at 7:24 pm
James, honestly, how in the world do you convince someone to allow you to step on in and see what they do? Awesome and delicious pork pictures.
November 11th, 2009 at 8:36 am
Thanks for the compliments, everyone :]
Humble: You’d be surprised what can be accomplished with a shotgun and hockey mask.
February 16th, 2010 at 11:31 pm
I’d like to note that over 10 comments were suddenly posted in response to this story, all of from under different names and all attacking the owners and workers at the Skylight Inn on the grounds of homophobia and bigotry.
I sympathize with any concerns on the issue and would have left one such comment here as a reminder of the continuing impact and significance of prejudice in the United States; however, the fact that every one of these comments came from the same IP addresses raises another issue, dishonesty, so I’ve deleted all of them and marked them as spam.
February 17th, 2010 at 5:38 am
I totally understand.(James Boo) I really was targeted because of being Gay.I deal with Homophobia from Pete Jones.I apologize but my friends weren’t happy either.
February 17th, 2010 at 9:28 am
Understood, Brandon. To be honest, I also think that multiple comments aren’t even needed for your point to be made – I’m fairly certain that most of my readers take the issues of civil rights and sexual orientation seriously. Thanks for clarifying!
February 17th, 2010 at 12:41 pm
You are more than welcome,My Friend.