No stranger to ethnic diversity, the kaleidoscopic mecca of Flushing, Queens is home to New York’s Ganesha Temple, one of the oldest houses of Hindu worship in the United States. Visually, the temple is an abrupt shock of ornate construction and concrete walls, imposing itself upon the row houses and driveways of residential Queens. Spiritually, it’s a better fit, one of many religious institutions in this peaceful quarter just slightly removed from the bustle and flow of downtown Flushing. Beyond the entryway is a grand chamber of Hindu gods, whose artisanally crafted altars are protected from overzealous fingers by the words, “PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH THE DEITIES.”

Hands-on worship is reserved for the temple’s community center, anchored saliently in the physical realm by the Ganesh Temple Canteen. Little more than a basement with a kitchen counter, the canteen is one more mark on my list of reasons that going to church can be a good thing – a few slots behind feasts cooked by devout Polish grandmothers and a few slots ahead of Easter eggs. Those who practice my kind of spirituality should be pleased to know that while the temple is beautiful in its own right, a visit to the deities is not required on your way to lunch downstairs.

The temple canteen’s menu is essentially a series of variations on the dosa, that classic South Indian vessel of vegetarian flavor. The over-sized crepes, offered in various incarnations and with several kinds of filling, are spot on in their crisp and fold. Their cooks exercise a fair level of control over each dosa and ensure that subtle differences in structure and flavor are preserved.

Two standbys, the masala (plain dosa curled around aloo masala) and the pondicherry (soft, triangular dosa filled with aloo and vegetables), make their appearance here in fine form. Also available are mysore, butter and chili dosas, the last of which are sprinkled with chopped chilis before being thrown onto the griddle. Daily specials step outside the dosa arena and into other traditional types of Indian cuisine, including an especially delicious oversized puri. Served with what seems like a soupier version of aloo gobi, the canteen’s puri are deep fried to the point of flakiness but retain the tender, wheaty flavor of atta – not unlike the fried dough used to make Chinese scallion pancakes, but simultaneously more delicate and gritty.

Even better than the dosas, breads and veggies served at the temple canteen is the sambar served with them. Where restaurant servings of this Indian staple is typically an inoffensive, mostly salty affair, the canteen’s sambar is a deep drag of stewed, spiced sapidity. A hearty coconut and coriander chutney does just as well in rounding out the styrofoam plates of food that dot the tables in this holiest of basements.

Some would find it tough to drag themselves to Flushing to pay their respects at the Ganesh Temple, but for anyone already in the neighborhood or for Flushing junkies who may have exhausted the downtown jumble of its Chinese food, a pilgrimage to the canteen is essential. Go with the hunger of Ganesh and as many arms as Vishnu, and you will find nirvana – at least, as much as will fit into a Queens cafeteria.

New York Ganesh Temple
45-57 Bowne St.
Flushing, NY 11355
718.460.8484

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, September 29th, 2009 at 5:38 pm and is filed under New York, Queens.