Hungering for Home in Budapest

by James Boo on June 21, 2009 · 7 comments

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While Budapest has plenty to offer in the way of tourism and the arts, my only real concern during my week in the city was to eat as much comfort food as possible. I was told upon arrival by several locals that a home cooked meal would be difficult to obtain. This notion may have been misplaced, given that, over the next seven days, I would be invited into strangers’ homes for freshly picked cherries, a classical piano concert, pork sausage from the corner butcher and a poorly made 4:00 a.m. spliff. Nevertheless, for home style food I was directed to a number of smaller restaurants and diners, local favorites that fall outside the purview of restaurant row in the sixth district. None of them failed to please.

Roasted Goose Leg - Kölöves - Budapest, Hungary
First up was Kölöves (stone soup), a classy, artsy restaurant that delivered a megaton of satisfaction in its roasted goose leg. The skin was crisped to the very edge of a char. Paper thin and bursting with flavor, it floated above a nearly melted layer of fat separating it from the dark meat and bone underneath. Biting into the leg released all of its juices into a perfect bite: crisp, oily, tender and meaty… not to mention ridiculously simple. If ever an argument for carnivorous design were to be made, this would be Exhibit A. It would, however, have been incomplete without the equally minimal boiled potatoes and earthy, sweet and sour pickled red cabbage that accompanied the meat in perfect proportion.

Roasted Goose Leg - Roma Étterem - Budapest, Hungary Grilled Pork With Egg Noodles - Roma Étterem - Budapest, Hungary
Roma, the beautiful patio restaurant that would serve us fried pork brain, offered equally delicious food on the west side of Danube. Its goose leg was a lighter construction, better seasoned and more texturally integrated than its counterpart at Kölöves but lacking the rush of fat and grease that came with its lopsided layers. The accompanying cabbage and potatoes matched in tone, trading in the earthy and heavy for bright, tart flavors.

Roma’s grilled pork with egg noodles came closer to the ideal of comfort food. Tender, slightly seared slices of pork and mushroom, bathed in a paprika anointed meat gravy and topped with sour cream, sat alongside a pile of springy, chewy egg noodles, waiting to be inhaled more than savored. I was all too happy to oblige.

Kádár Étkezde - Budapest, Hungary Kádár Étkezde - Budapest, Hungary
Highest expectations were set for Kádár Étkezde, a legendary lunch diner (lunch, not dinner, is the primary meal in Magyar cuisine) that was recommended by literally every Hungarian local willing to talk to me about serious food. Originally opened by the Kádár family as one of few privately owned dining establishments in Budapest during its Soviet occupation, Kádár today exists in a bit of a time warp.

Each table, dressed in white and red checkers, is furnished with a bottle of seltzer water and a basket of bread, which you take at your leisure and pay for – working within the confines of the honor system – after your meal. Autographed photos and small paintings blanket the walls, attesting to the eatery’s status as the last game in town when it comes to authentically classic Jewish-Hungarian cooking. If that weren’t enough to convince you of Kádár’s home kitchen cred, every item on the first half of the regular menu begins with the words, “boiled beef.”

I had come to Kádár lusting after its mythic solet, a sabbath specialty derived from a traditional Jewish stew (cholent) and served in decidedly unorthodox style by Hungarian restaurants in Budapest. For reasons still to be resolved, I did not have my solet – it joined halászlé and several other Magyar favorites that I somehow managed to fail at eating during my lengthy stay in Budapest.

Lecsós Borda - Kádár Étkezde - Budapest, Hungary Sertéspörkölt-Galuska - Kádár Étkezde - Budapest, Hungary
Töltött Paprika - Kádár Étkezde - Budapest, Hungary Császármorzsa - Kádár Étkezde - Budapest, Hungary
I did, however, have a meal that made me wish I’d been eating lunch at Kádár on every day of the week. Lecsós Borda, best explained as pork chops grilled with peppers, tomatoes, onions in a sauce that was completely permeated by the smoky musk of bacon, made good on its status as a blue plate special. Sertéspörkölt-Galuska (pork goulash) was unbeatable in its simplicity: It was a stew crafted from no more than five ingredients but cooked so expertly that its flavors (pork, tomato, paprika and onion) were bolder and livelier than anything else on the table. Töltött Paprika (stuffed peppers) were a delight, much like Polish golabki but heartier in flavor and form. Dessert was császármorzsa, a crumbly and chewy bread pudding served with currants, powdered sugar and blissful pond of apricot preserve.

Unexplored territory on the menu included pork stomach, goose wings, a number of cabbage dishes, all that boiled beef and of course the much vaunted solet that had lured me here in the first place. When I make it back to Budapest, Kádár Étkezde will be my first stop and perhaps my only stop until I’ve plumbed the depths of its kitchen. It may not be someone’s personal dining room, but as far as I’m concerned, it’s home enough to miss.

Kölöves
Kazinczy u. 35
VII District, Budapest, HUNGARY
Roma Étterem
Csalogány u. at Málina u.
II District, Budapest, HUNGARY
Kádár Étkezde
Klauzál Tér 9
VII District, Budapest, HUNGARY
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Comments

Yvo June 22, 2009 at 9:05 am

Hearing you wax poetic about these food items that are (probably?) difficult to obtain in NYC really makes me want Budapest to be my next stop in the world. Wow. That ish looks damn tasty.

James Boo June 22, 2009 at 9:34 am

I’m not sure why goose/duck leg isn’t easier to come by here. We do have Popeye’s, though, so I won’t complain too much…

Yvo June 23, 2009 at 11:19 am

The only goose anything I can find here is fat, which is lovely but overpriced. I’d like to find the whole goose! Duck leg, I’ve seen (D’artagnan in some specialty groceries) but it’s often confit’ed already… Mmm… damn it.

Edina June 26, 2010 at 4:07 pm

Im from Hungary. Császármorzsa is one of my favorite dessert, it is made of grits, flour, eggs, baking powder, its very easy to make. Császármorzsa has nothing to do with the bread pudding.

James Boo June 27, 2010 at 9:48 am

Hello Edina! Thanks for sharing the basics here and correcting my terminology… I’m happy to see grits involved in anything – including császármorzsa, of course :)

rl reeves jr July 13, 2010 at 4:23 pm

Just stumbled upon your site. I put a hot link to one of your articles on chowhound. Follow it here if you’re of a mind

http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/718555?tag=boards;topic-718555

Great article about Hungarian soul food. Can’t wait to get to Budapest [[only 20 days]

Wostry Ferenc May 4, 2011 at 1:17 pm

Glad you liked Kádár, I go there occasionally, love the atmosphere more than the food, never the less I think I’ll go this saturday for the sólet :)

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